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Home / Blog / A Little Symphony of Sparkle: Bezel-Set Jewellery

08.26 • 16 min read

A Little Symphony of Sparkle: Bezel-Set Jewellery

Seaspray, Dewdrops and Movement

There is something wonderfully playful about jewellery inspired by nature, movement and music.

Perhaps it is the way a scattering of diamonds catches the light like tiny dewdrops on a summer morning. Or the way coloured gemstones appear almost like drops of seaspray across a piece of jewellery. Perhaps they are like stars and planets in our solar system. Look a little closer and the rhythm of different-sized stones can even resemble musical notes travelling along a stave.

There is no single way to see it. That is part of the fun.

Our bezel-set jewellery brings together diamonds and coloured gemstones in flowing, contemporary arrangements, creating pieces that feel light-hearted, modern and full of movement.

Think of sunlight catching on sea spray, tiny drops of water glistening after a summer shower, or the sparkle left behind when the rain finally clears.

Each gemstone catches the light in its own way, creating little flashes of colour and brilliance.

A little symphony of sparkle, where every gemstone has its own note.

Multi-band ring set with Round Brilliant Diamonds.

A Rainbow of Gemstones

One of the things we love most about this style of jewellery is the freedom to play with colour.

We have created pieces combining sapphires and diamonds, rubies and diamonds, as well as other combinations of coloured gemstones. You can keep things beautifully understated with one colour, perhaps a scattering of blue sapphires and diamonds, or introduce several bright shades for something much more playful.

There is something wonderfully nostalgic about colourful gemstones.

Bright pinks, blues, greens, oranges and yellows can remind us of childhood memories, seaside holidays and jars of colourful boiled sweets. They bring a sense of fun to fine jewellery and prove that precious pieces do not always have to be serious or traditional.

Sometimes, jewellery can simply make you smile.

And because the stones can all be different sizes, the possibilities are almost endless.

A larger gemstone might become the main feature, surrounded by smaller stones, while a selection of different-sized gems can be scattered along a band to create a gentle sense of rhythm.

Rather than everything matching perfectly, the differences become part of the design.

Cosmos Inspired Multi Band Mixed Gemstone Ring in 9ct Yellow Gold

Emerald and Diamond Multi-Band Ring in Yellow Gold

Sapphire and Diamond Multi-Band Ring in Platinum

Ruby & Diamond Multi Band Ring in Yellow Gold

Chrome Diopside, Amethyst & Diamond Ring

A Little Rhythm of Sparkle

Look closely at these pieces and you will notice that the gemstones do not necessarily follow a perfectly repetitive pattern.

A smaller stone might sit beside a larger one, followed by another smaller stone and then another feature stone. Smooth sections of precious metal flow between them, helping the eye travel naturally across the design.

It almost feels like looking at notes dancing along sheets of music.

Some notes are high, some low. Some are louder, some quieter. Together they create the composition.

The same is true of the gemstones.

A diamond might provide a bright flash of white sparkle, while a sapphire brings depth and colour. A ruby adds warmth and richness, while smaller stones create delicate twinkling details around them.

The result is jewellery with movement and personality rather than rigid symmetry.

Different sizes, colours and gemstones coming together in harmony.

Multi-Band Diamond Ring in 18ct Yellow Gold

One Idea, Many Possibilities

One of the most appealing things about this style is its versatility.

The same flowing idea can be interpreted across rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings, from classic studs to more dramatic drop earrings.

A necklace might have a scattering of gemstones across the front, creating a little melody of sparkle against the neckline. A single pendant can become a cascade of precious droplets.

On a ring, the stones can appear to flow across the finger, with different sizes creating rhythm as the band curves.

Earrings can be small and understated for everyday wear or extended into longer drops for a little more drama.

And you don’t necessarily have to choose diamonds.

A combination of coloured gemstones and diamonds can give a piece an entirely different character, depending on the colours, proportions and sizes you choose.

The beauty is in the interpretation.

Ruby and Diamond Multi Stone Pendant in 18ct White Gold

Rub Over Set Laboratory Created Line Bracelet in 9ct White Gold

Why Choose a Rubover or Bezel Setting?

A rubover, known as a bezel setting in the US, is where the edge of the precious metal wraps around the outside of the gemstone, holding it securely in place.

It gives each stone a smooth, clean outline and a wonderfully contemporary appearance. Without traditional claws interrupting the edges, the gemstone itself becomes the focus.

It is also a practical and secure setting for jewellery designed to be worn often and enjoyed.

The smooth edges mean there are fewer little claws or prongs to catch on clothing, making bezel settings particularly appealing for rings and other everyday pieces.

The precious metal can change the entire character of the design too.

Yellow and rose gold bring warmth and richness, while white gold and platinum create a crisp, contemporary finish that beautifully complements both diamonds and coloured gemstones.

And, of course, metals can be mixed. Contrasting bezels and bands can create another subtle layer of interest.

The gemstone arrangement might remain the same, but changing the metal can completely alter the mood.

Pink Sapphire and Diamond Station Bracelet in Yellow Gold

Ruby & Diamond Line Bracelet in Yellow Gold.

Blue Sapphire & Diamond Station Bracelet

Perfect for Remodelling Jewellery

Interestingly, this has become one of our favourite styles for remodelling jewellery.

Many of us have jewellery sitting unworn in a drawer. Perhaps an inherited ring no longer suits your style, an old engagement ring has been replaced, or you have several smaller pieces containing gemstones that you would love to bring back to life.

A scattered bezel-set design can be a wonderful way of bringing those stones together.

Because the design naturally works with different sizes and colours of gemstones, everything does not have to match perfectly.

You might have a couple of larger diamonds, several smaller diamonds and perhaps a few coloured gemstones from different pieces of jewellery.

Rather than trying to make everything identical, we can embrace those differences and make them part of the character of the new design.

It can be a lovely way to transform several unworn pieces into one completely new creation, while keeping the gemstones — and the memories attached to them — from the originals.

In a way, you are taking several old pieces and composing them into something new.

A completely personal little symphony.

Bespoke Remodelling Commission: Customer’s Diamonds & Emeralds in Platinum and Yellow Gold

Three Sizes — Or Completely Bespoke

Our bezel-set designs are available in three different widths, giving you options depending on whether you prefer something delicate and understated or a little more substantial.

But these are starting points rather than limitations.

As with so much of the jewellery we create here at Timothy Roe Fine Jewellery, the design can also be made completely bespoke.

We can alter the proportions, choose your gemstones, change the number and arrangement of stones and create something specifically for you.

You can bring us your own gemstones and we can create a design around what you already have.

Alternatively, if you have a particular colour or gemstone in mind, we can source stones for you and help you choose the right combination of colours, sizes and shapes.

You become part of the creative process, choosing the notes that make up your own little composition.

Small: Ruby and Diamond Multi-Band Ring in Yellow Gold

Medium: Tourmaline, Zircon and Diamond Multi-band Ring in 9ct Yellow Gold

Large: Diamond Multi-Band Ring in Platinum

Ready-Made or Made Just for You

If you love the look but don’t want to wait for a bespoke commission, we regularly have pieces ready to buy in our showroom windows.

You might spot a ring, necklace or pair of earrings that immediately catches your eye.

Or perhaps you love the idea but would like a different combination of gemstones, a different size or another precious metal.

That’s where bespoke comes in.

We can take inspiration from a piece you have seen and create something completely new, or start with your own jewellery and gemstones to make a piece that is uniquely yours.

November 2023 Bespoke Commission – Lab-Created Pink & Blue Diamonds, Round & Princess Diamonds, Freshwater Pearls in Platinum

Bespoke Commission 2024: Laboratory-grown oval diamond in the centre claw set, with natural red pear cut rubies and round brilliant cut white diamonds bezel-set in a multi-band platinum ring

Learn more about our bespoke process

Inspired by the Coast

Being based in Chichester, we are lucky enough to have the Sussex coast on our doorstep, and it is hard not to be inspired by the sea.

There is something mesmerising about watching sunlight move across the water.

Waves roll in. Sea spray catches the light. Tiny droplets appear and disappear in an instant.

There is rhythm everywhere.

The rise and fall of the waves.

The movement of water across the shore.

The sparkle of sunlight.

The scattering of spray.

These are the kinds of fleeting details that can find their way into jewellery without ever needing to be literal.

A curve of metal might suggest movement. A scattering of stones might resemble droplets. A flash of diamond might catch the light like sunshine on water.

And perhaps, if you look closely enough, you might even hear the music.

Sapphire and Diamond Drop Pendant in Platinum and White Gold

Diamond Drop Earrings

A Little Bit of Summer, All Year Round

Perhaps that is what we enjoy most about these designs.

They capture something joyful and carefree — the feeling of a summer shower, sunlight after rain, sea spray on the coast and tiny drops of water sparkling in the sunshine.

And, of course, being British, we don’t need to wait for summer!

The inspiration works just as beautifully in autumn, spring and winter. After all, the British weather gives us plenty of opportunities to appreciate rain, water and those fleeting moments when sunlight catches the drops.

Whether you choose a delicate pair of diamond studs, a colourful sapphire and diamond necklace, a scattering of bezel-set stones across a ring, or a completely bespoke piece made from your own treasured jewellery, there is plenty of room for your own interpretation.

Perhaps you see seaspray.

Perhaps you see dewdrops.

Perhaps you hear a little melody.

Or perhaps you simply see beautiful gemstones dancing across precious metal.

A little bit of sea spray.

A little bit of dew.

A little bit of movement.

And a whole lot of sparkle.

If you’d like to explore the pieces we currently have in our showroom, pop in and see what catches your eye.

And if you have jewellery sitting unworn in a drawer, bring it along too. You might be surprised at the beautiful new composition we can create from the stones you already own.