Sapphires are among the most captivating of all coloured gemstones. Available in an extraordinary spectrum of hues, they are a perennial favourite for those seeking something vibrant yet enduring. Their impressive hardness makes them well suited to everyday wear, and when paired with diamonds, they create a striking contrast of brilliance and colour.

Yet even a gemstone as durable as sapphire is not entirely immune to time. With regular wear, facet edges can gradually soften through abrasion. As those crisp edges become rounded, the way light interacts with the stone changes. The once sharp, vitreous lustre may appear slightly muted, and the gem can take on a softer glow, almost reminiscent of a cabochon cut. While refashioning or repolishing can restore brilliance, doing so inevitably removes material. This reduces the carat weight and may alter how the stone sits within its setting, sometimes requiring more extensive (and costly) remounting work.

With thoughtful care, however, your sapphire jewellery can retain its beauty for generations.

Steel Blue Sapphire and Diamond Ring in Platinum £7,995.00

Why We Love Sapphires

Part of the sapphire’s enduring appeal lies in its individuality. No two stones are exactly alike. Variations in tone, saturation and natural inclusions ensure that each gem is entirely unique — a reflection of both its geological journey and its wearer’s personality.

Durability is another reason sapphires are so treasured. Ranking 9 on the Mohs scale of hardness, they are second only to diamond, making them ideal for pieces worn daily, such as engagement rings. They offer reassurance as well as beauty.

Then there is the remarkable range of colour. While the classic royal blue remains iconic, sapphires also appear in romantic blush pinks, cool teal greens, vibrant yellows and even playful rainbow arrangements. Whether you prefer a subtle ombré effect or a bold statement hue, there is a sapphire to suit every mood and complexion.

Fine sapphires also have impressive longevity in value. Particularly in the case of untreated or minimally enhanced stones, they remain highly sought after at prestigious auction houses such as Sotheby’s and Christie’s. Their rarity, provenance and natural beauty make them enduringly desirable to collectors worldwide.

Multi-Halo Sapphire and Diamond Ring in Platinum £2,675.00

Sapphire’s Durability

One of sapphire’s greatest strengths is its resilience. Its hardness means it resists most everyday scratches, making it practical for frequently worn jewellery. It can typically withstand gentle knocks, ultrasonic cleaning and washing with mild detergents such as diluted washing-up liquid.

Interestingly, while diamonds are harder, sapphires are technically tougher in some respects. Diamonds have cleavage planes, meaning they can split if struck at the right angle. Sapphires do not have these cleavage planes, allowing them to better withstand impact. That said, we would never recommend putting this to the test. A sharp blow can still cause fractures, so mindful wear is always advised.

Cushion Teal Sapphire and Diamond Three Stone Ring in Platinum £2,750.00

Treatments to Enhance Natural Beauty

Like many gemstones, sapphires may undergo treatments to enhance their natural colour and clarity. Not all treatments are equal in permanence or stability, and some are far more widely accepted within the fine jewellery industry than others.

Heat treatment is by far the most common and widely accepted enhancement. In their natural state, sapphires often contain minute inclusions such as rutile or boehmite, which can create a hazy appearance. Gentle heating reduces these inclusions and can intensify colour saturation, resulting in a clearer, more vivid gem. Importantly, nothing is added to the stone during this process. Heating simply enhances what nature has already provided, allowing more beautifully coloured sapphires to reach the market.

Untreated sapphires displaying exceptional colour and clarity are exceedingly rare. When they do appear, they often command remarkable prices, reflecting both their scarcity and desirability.

Other treatments, such as diffusion, fracture filling or surface coating, are less stable. Diffusion introduces artificial colour into the outer layer of the gem, typically to a depth of less than 0.5mm. These treatments are not permanent and can be damaged by ultrasonic cleaning or exposure to a jeweller’s torch, making them more challenging to maintain and work with over time.

At Timothy Roe, we choose to work predominantly with heat-treated sapphires and avoid diffusion-treated, coated or fracture-filled stones. We believe in preserving as much of the gemstone’s natural integrity as possible, ensuring longevity, durability and stability are never compromised. Natural growth lines, subtle colour zoning and small inclusions are not flaws in our eyes; they are the fingerprints of the earth — details that tell the gem’s geological story and affirm its authenticity.

Pink Sapphire and Diamond Ring in 18ct Rose Gold and Platinum £2,500.00

Caring for Your Natural Sapphire Jewellery

Caring for sapphire jewellery is refreshingly simple. If you want to know how to make your sapphire shiny and sparkly again here are some easy tips on how to clean your sapphire at home.

  1. Gentle cleaning with warm water, diluted fairy liquid (dish soap) and a soft baby toothbrush will remove everyday build-up and restore sparkle. It is wise to avoid harsh chemicals, likewise do not use gin, vodka, paint stripper/thinner or any other aggressive acid based detergents or industrial strength products.

  2. We also recommend avoiding extreme temperature fluctuations, such as saunas or freezing conditions, as sudden changes can stress any gemstone.

  3. When not being worn, sapphires should be stored separately from harder gems — including diamonds — to prevent scratching. Although durable, they should still be removed during strenuous activities such as gardening, sports, heavy cleaning or lifting weights, where sharp impacts are more likely.

  4. Thoughtful design also plays a role in long-term care. Settings that protect the edges of the stone help shield facet junctions from excessive wear, preserving their crispness and brilliance.

  5. Finally, periodic professional cleaning and inspection are invaluable. A jeweller can check for loose settings, clean hard-to-reach areas and ensure your sapphire continues to shine as beautifully as the day it was first worn.

With considered care, a sapphire is more than a gemstone. It becomes a lasting heirloom — resilient, radiant and rich with character — ready to be cherished for generations to come.

Purple Sapphire and Diamond Ring in 18ct White Gold £2,995.00

Next
Next

All About Amethyst: An Expert Guide to Amethyst Jewellery