A Guide to Stone Setting Styles
Choosing the right stone setting style is an essential part of designing any piece of bespoke jewellery. The setting not only defines the overall look of a ring, pendant or earrings but also determines how the gemstones catch the light, how secure they are, and how the piece feels when worn. From sleek, modern designs to intricate vintage-inspired details, each setting style brings its own character and charm.
At Timothy Roe Fine Jewellery, we have two master stone setters each with over 30 years experience and thus are able to offer a curated selection of the most trusted and beautiful diamond and gemstone setting styles, used across our engagement rings, wedding bands, and bespoke creations. While there are many techniques used throughout the jewellery world, the styles below represent the most popular and versatile options we use in our workshop.
Bar Setting:
A clean, contemporary style where each stone is secured between two vertical metal bars, leaving the sides open to let in light. This creates a smooth, streamlined look with strong definition between each stone while keeping the overall design elegant and modern.
Timothy Roe Bar Set Marquise Ring in Platinum £4,495.00
Castle / Castelle / Cutaway Claws:
A vintage-inspired setting where V-shaped notches hold closely set stones with tiny, nearly invisible beads, creating a scalloped, castle-like effect. The cutaway metal allows more light to reach the diamonds, enhancing sparkle, and results in a refined, low-set design that is both feminine and intricate.
Timothy Roe Diamond Claw Set Eternity Ring in Platinum £2,250.00
Channel Setting:
A sleek and contemporary style where gemstones are set closely together within a smooth metal channel. The stones sit flush with the band, creating a seamless line of sparkle with no visible claws — perfect for a refined, modern look.
Timothy Roe Blue Sapphire and Diamond Half Eternity Ring in Platinum £1,625.00
Claw Setting:
Small, refined claws that securely hold each gemstone, allowing maximum light to pass through while maintaining a clean, minimal look. Ideal for those who love subtle detailing and understated sparkle.
Timothy Roe Claw Set 0.90ct Diamond Solitaire Ring in Platinum £3,295.00
Grain Setting:
A timeless technique in which tiny beads or “grains” of metal are raised to secure each stone in place. This style produces a fine, detailed surface texture and a soft shimmer, often seen in classic and antique-inspired designs.
Timothy Roe Grain Set Ruby and Diamond Eternity Ring in 18ct Yellow Gold £2,175.00
Gypsy / Star Setting:
Ideal for straight-edged classic bands, the star setting features a subtle, low-profile design where the stone sits flush with the metal, secured by three tiny beads. Often accented with engraved star or decorative motifs, this setting offers a sleek, secure, and understated sparkle with a charming vintage touch.
Timothy Roe Private Commission Completed November 2025
Flush Setting:
In a flush setting, the gemstone is set level with the surface of the metal, creating a smooth, modern finish. The stone sits securely within a small, precisely cut recess, making this style ideal for a sleek look for everyday wearability.
Timothy Roe Flush Set Diamond Bangle in Yellow Gold £1,295.00
Pavé / French Pavé Setting:
A luxurious setting style where the surface of the band is closely set with tiny gemstones, giving the illusion of continuous sparkle. In French pavé, the metal is cut away into tiny V-shapes, creating a more intricate, diamond-intense finish with added brilliance.
Timothy Roe Pave Set Large Diamond Star Pendant in White Gold £1,420.00
Rubover/ Bezel Setting:
A classic and secure style where the metal surrounds the stone’s edges, either fully or partially, holding it in place. The rubover gently wraps around the stone, offering a sleek, protective frame that highlights the gem while providing durability and a polished, timeless look. Add in a millegrain edge (soft beading) for a vintage romantic aesthetic.
Timothy Roe Rubover Set Five Stone Half Eternity Ring in Platinum £3,050.00
Shared Claws:
A refined and elegant design where two gemstones share a single claw between them. This setting minimises the amount of metal on show, allowing the stones to take centre stage and creating a continuous, radiant line of brilliance along the band.
Timothy Roe Valles Diamond & Platinum Eternity Ring £4,395.00
Tension Setting:
Usually for solitaire engagement rings, this is a modern, minimalist style where the stone is held in place by the pressure of the metal band, creating the illusion that it is suspended in mid-air. This setting allows maximum light to reach the stone for exceptional brilliance while maintaining a sleek, contemporary look.
Timothy Roe Private Commission Completed October 2023
A hidden flush set diamond on the inside of the shank
U-Claw Setting:
A delicate yet secure style where each stone is held by U-shaped claws that cradle the gem in a deep scoop while keeping the sides open. This allows more light to enter the stone for enhanced sparkle, creating a refined, elegant look with minimal metal on show. The stones ergo sit closer to the finger.
U Claw Diamond Eternity Ring in 18ct Yellow Gold £1,995.00
From clean, contemporary lines to ornate antique details, each stone-setting style offers its own unique blend of beauty, craftsmanship, and practicality. Some designs maximise sparkle with open, light-enhancing structures, while others prioritise smoothness, durability, or a continuous flow of brilliance. Exploring these options can help you create jewellery that pairs harmoniously with your engagement rings, wedding bands or stands beautifully on its own. Ultimately, the right setting should feel like a natural extension of your style — thoughtfully designed, carefully crafted, and meant to shine for a lifetime.
To explore these styles further, feel free to browse our online shop or visit our bespoke jewellery page to see past creations and gain inspiration for your own unique piece.
